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By Dougald MacDonald :
Micah Dash and Eric DeCaria made the second ascent of Cat’s
Ear Spire (17,585 feet) in the Trango area of Pakistan, climbing a 12-pitch
variation to the original route on the stunning rock needle. The two
Americans climbed the 3,500-foot line, Super Cat (VI 5.11 R A1), in alpine
style, enduring three bivouacs with no sleeping bags. They placed no pins or
bolts on the route. Cat’s Ear
Spire was pioneered in 2000 by Americans Jonny Copp and Mike Pennings. Dash
said in an email from Pakistan that the climb was “much more serious and
complicated than the Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower,” a route that
he and partners speed-climbed to the summit ridge last year. “The route
consisted of pitch after pitch of mandatory run-out 5.11 offwidth, squeeze
chimney, and face climbing,” Dash said. Both men led and downclimbed the
summit block to tag the top.
CAT'S EARS SPIRE - EXPEDITION PACKAGE
|
Altitude
/ Height
|
5,361
Meters (17,585 Feet)
|
|
Location / Bearings
|
N
35° 44′ – E 76° 11′
|
|
Range
/ Group
|
Karakoram
/ Trango
|
|
Region
/ Glacier
|
Skardu
/ Baltoro & Trango
|
|
Permit Zone
|
Regulated Zone |
|
Best Climbing Time |
Mid May - Mid Sep |
|
Normal Permit Fee
|
US$ 1,500
|
|
Discounted
Fee
(click)
|
100%
Free of Cost |
|
Trip
Duration / Climb
|
30
Days / 14-18
Days
|
|
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