Pakistan Guides

EXPEDITION  PACKAGES FOR 8000 METER PEAKS
 

K2 / CHOGHORI (8616 M)      GASHERBRUM I (8068 M)     BROAD  PEAK (8047 M)

GASHERBRUM II (8035 M)       NANGA  PARBAT (8125 M)
 

BROAD  PEAK (8,047 M) - EXPEDITION PACKAGE
(Map of Broad Peak)

Altitude (Height) 8,047 Meters (26,394 Feet) Location (Bearings) N-35°.48′ – E 76°.34′ Range / Group Karakoram / Baltoro Muztagh Region / Glacier Baltistan / Godwin Austin Permit Zone Regulated (Needs Army L.O) Best Climbing Time Mid May – Mid Aug Normal Permit Fee US$ 9,000 (for 07 persons) Discounted Fee US$ 4,500 (for 7 persons) Duration / Climbing 50 Days / 30 Days

The local name of Broad Peak is Falchen Kangri, however, due to the immense and broad bulk of this peak, it’s called the Broad Peak . At 8047, this is the world’s 12^th highest peak and considered as one of comparatively easier 8000 meter peaks.  

Following the conventional climbing style, this peaks needs to establish at least three camps at 6000M, 6500M, and 7200M.  

The approach to Broad Peak goes through the Baltoro Glacier which has been rightly reckoned as the greatest museum of shape & form on earth by the famous Italian explorer Fosco Maraini.  There are several high peaks which rise from the world’s largest temperate zone glacier. An incredible nineteen of these peaks tower over 7600m while four of them are above 8000. Only the superlatives can define the beauty and grandeur witnessed on this "sublime sanctuary of nature".  

Known as the most spectacular trek in the world, the traditional expedition route to Pakistan ’s Four Eight Thousand Meter Peaks cuts through the greatest concentration of some of the highest peaks in the world. Not only are the mountains high, but they are the most jagged and sheer than the monoliths of Nepal . 08 of the world's 30 highest peaks of the world stand around this unusual trek. The apex of this incredible trek is Concordia one of the  biggest peadmont glaciers of the world. It is a  spectacular junction of Godwin Austin Glacier, Abruzzi Glacier and Baltoro Glacier. It banks, 06 peaks over 25,912 ft (7900 M) within a short radius of 07 miles (11 Km).  

The walk to Concordia, however, is a challenging trek up and down the gorges, across rushing icy torrents, through broken rocks, over wire-rope bridges and through crevassed glaciers. The incentive for this strenuous walk is undoubtedly equally rewarding. Chongo Brakk, Mango Gusar, Sobla, Chiring, Bakhordas, Bardumal, Liligo, Paiju, Trango Towers Group, Uli Biaho Towers, Mitre Peak, Muztagh Tower, Gasherbrum 3, 4, 5 & 6, Broad Peak, Chogolisa, Golden Throne, Sia Kangri, Angles, Marble Peak & the Mighty K-2 are just a few of the innumerable mountain vistas to be witnessed on this trek in addition to tranquil lakes, blossoming fruit orchards, meandering rivers, tumbling water falls and undulating sand dunes with a unique blend of the modest Balti culture marked with distinct language, architecture and dresses. Although on the entire trek we are in absolute wilderness, we will take a colorful part of the Karakoram Culture with us. Our scores of lively Baltis and Hunzakuts who are tough enough to sing and dance after the hard day's work.  

TRIP SUMMARY: Duration: 50 Days, Camping Nights: 41, Climbing: 30 Days, Hotels: 09 Nights, Start: Skardu/Askole, End: Hushe/Skardu, Approach March : 07 Days, Domestic Flights : 02, Jeep Drive: 02 Days  

SKETCH ITINERARY :

Day 01: Arrive Islamabad . Transfer to Hotel. Inspection of food & equipment. Night in Hotel.

Day 02: Documentation & briefing at Ministry of Tourism. Local chores & packing. Overnight in Hotel.
Day 03: Fly to Skardu by weather permitting flight or drive to Chilas, if unable to fly (490 km). In Hotel.
Day 04: Local chores in Skardu or complete road journey (275 km), if unable to fly yesterday. In Hotel.

Day 05: Drive to Askole by jeep (7hrs, 3000m). Hire porters, distribute loads. Overnight in camp.

Day 06-12: Trek to Broad Peak Base via Korophone, Bardumal, Paiju, Liligo, Urdukas, Goro & Concordia.
Day 13-42: 30 days for climbing. Services available only upto base camp. All nights in camps.

Day 43-46: Walk back to Hushe Valley via Gondogoro Pass and drive back to Skardu by jeep. In Hotel.
Day 47 & 48: Fly or drive to Islamabad via Chilas. Local chores in Islamabad . Overnight in Hotel.
Day 49: Islamabad : De-briefing at Ministry of Tourism. Packing for homebound flight.

Day 50: Transfer to Islamabad airport & embark your home bound flight.
 

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GASHERBRUM I (8,068 M) - EXPEDITION PACKAGE
(Map of Gasherbrum 1)

Altitude (Height) 8,068 Meters (26,463 Feet) Location (Bearings) N-35°.43′ – E 76°.42′ Range / Group Karakoram / Gasherbrum Region / Glaciers Baltistan /  Baltoro & Abruzzi Best Climbing Time Mid May – Mid Aug Permit Zone Regulated (Needs Army L.O) Normal Permit Fee US$ 9,000 (for 07 persons) Discounted Fee   US$ 4,500 (for 07 persons) Duration / Climbing 60 Days / 40 Days

The conventional climbing route to the summit of this spectacular peak is from the plateau on the Gasherbrum Glacier, however, another more popular route in the recent years has been the Gasherbrum Pass upto the Japanese Culvert along the north ridge. Yet another route is from the west ridge which is technically less difficult but takes longer time due to longer distance between camp 1 and its summit. While the lower part imparts some technical difficulties, the upper snow face also threatens danger of avalanches, especially after fresh snow falls.

TRIP SUMMARY: Duration: 60 Days, Camping Nights: 51, Climbing: 40 Days, Hotels: 07 Nights, Start: Skardu/Askole, End: Hushe/Skardu, Approach March: 07 Days, Domestic Flights: 02, Jeep Drive: 02 Days

SKETCH ITINERARY :

Day 01: Arrive Islamabad . Transfer to Hotel. Inspection of food & equipment. Overnight in Hotel.

Day 02: Documentation & briefing at Ministry of Tourism. Local chores & packing. Overnight in Hotel.
Day 03: Fly to Skardu by weather permitting flight or drive to Chilas, if unable to fly (490 km). In Hotel.
Day 04: Local chores in Skardu or complete road journey (275 km), if unable to fly yesterday. In Hotel.

Day 05: Drive to Askole by jeep (7hrs, 3000m). Hire porters, distribute loads. Overnight in camp.

Day 06-12: Trek to G-1 Base Camp. Via Korophone, Bardumal, Paiju, Liligo, Urdukas, Goro & Concordia.
Day 13-52: 40 days for climbing. Our services will be available only upto base camp. All nights in camps.

Day 53-56: Walk back to Hushe Valley via Gondogoro Pass and drive back to Skardu by jeep.
Day 57 & 58: Fly or drive to Islamabad via Chilas. Local chores in Islamabad . Overnight in Hotel.
Day 59: In Islamabad : De-briefing at Ministry of Tourism. Packing for homebound flight. Night in Hotel.

Day 60: Transfer to Islamabad airport. Fly home. End of our services.
 

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GASHERBRUM II (8,035 M) - EXPEDITION PACKAGE
(Map of Gasherbrum II)

Altitude (Height) 8,035 Meters (26,355 Feet) Bearings / Location N-35°.45′ – E 76°.39′ Range / Group Karakoram / Gasherbrum Region / Glaciers Baltistan / Baltoro & Abruzzi Permit Zone Regulated (Needs Army LO) Best Climbing Time Mid May – Mid Aug Normal Permit Fee US$ 9,000 (for 07 persons) Discounted Fee US$ 4500 (for 07 persons) Duration / Climbing 60 Days / 40 Days

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K2 / CHOGHORI (8,616 M) - EXPEDITION  PACKAGE
(Map of K-2)

Altitude (Height) 8,616 Meters (28,260 Feet) Location (Bearings) N 35°.53′ – E 76°.31′ Range / Group Karakoram / Baltoro Muztagh Region / Glacier Baltistan / Godwin Austin Permit Zone Regulated (Needs Army L.O) Best Climbing Time Mid May – Mid Aug Normal Permit Fee US$ 12,000 (for 07 persons) Discounted Fee US$ 6,000 (for 07 persons) Duration / Climbing 80 Days / 60 Days

K2 is the second highest mountain of the world and the highest in the Karakoram range . Its original name is Chogori in Balti language, which means the great mountain. Karakoram means Back Rock in Turkish. K-2 was first discovered by a British Army Officer - Capt. Montgomery while surveying a number of peaks in the region in 1856. He found a thick cluster of high peaks and named them K1, K2, K3 upto K 37 using the prefix K as Karakorum . In 1861, this area was once again surveyed by Col. Godwin Austin who reckoned K2 as the highest peak of the Karakoram range at 8619 meters, only three meters higher than its correct height 8616 which was measured with most modern scientific equipment in 1986. This great mountain is located on the Godwin Austin and Concordia Glaciers. It was first climbed by Italians in 1954.  

The approach to K2 goes through the Baltoro Glacier which has been rightly reckoned as the greatest museum of shape & form on earth by the famous Italian explorer Fosco Maraini.  There are several high peaks which rise from the world’s largest temperate zone glacier. An incredible nineteen of these peaks tower over 7600m while four of them are above 8000. Only the superlatives can define the beauty and grandeur witnessed on this "sublime sanctuary of nature".  

Known as the most spectacular trek in the world, the traditional expedition route to K-2 (Chogori) 8616 M - the second highest mountain on Earth, cuts through the greatest concentration of some of the highest peaks in the world. Not only are the mountains high, but they are the most jagged and sheer than the monoliths of Nepal . 08 of the world's 30 highest peaks of the world stand around this unusual trek. The apex of this incredible trek is Concordia one of the  biggest peadmont glaciers of the world. It is a  spectacular junction of Godwin Austin Glacier, Abruzzi Glacier and Baltoro Glacier. It banks, 06 peaks over 25,912 ft (7900 M) within a short radius of 07 miles (11 Km).  

The walk to Concordia, however, is a challenging trek up and down the gorges, across rushing icy torrents, through broken rocks, over wire-rope bridges and through crevassed glaciers. The incentive for this strenuous walk is undoubtedly equally rewarding. Chongo Brakk, Mango Gusar, Sobla, Chiring, Bakhordas, Bardumal, Liligo, Paiju, Trango Towers Group, Uli Biaho Towers, Mitre Peak, Muztagh Tower, Gasherbrum 3, 4, 5 & 6, Broad Peak, Chogolisa, Golden Throne, Sia Kangri, Angles, Marble Peak & the Mighty K-2 are just a few of the innumerable mountain vistas to be witnessed on this trek in addition to tranquil lakes, blossoming fruit orchards, meandering rivers, tumbling water falls and undulating sand dunes with a unique blend of the modest Balti culture marked with distinct language, architecture and dresses. Although on the entire trek we are in absolute wilderness, we will take a colorful part of the Karakoram Culture with us. Our scores of lively Baltis and Hunzakuts who are tough enough to sing and dance after the hard day's work. We will be invited to join in. There will be many memorable evenings listening to their songs and watching their dances.

TRIP SUMMARY: Duration: 80 Days, Camping Nights: 70, Climbing: 60 Days, Hotels: 07 Nights, Start: Skardu/Askole, End: Hushe/Skardu, Approach March : 07 Days, Domestic Flights : 02, Jeep Drive: 02 Days  

SKETCH ITINERARY :

Day 01: Arrive Islamabad . Transfer to Hotel. Local chores. Inspection of food & equipment.
Day 02: Documentation & briefing at Ministry of Tourism. Local chores & packing. Night in Hotel.
Day 03: Fly to Skardu by weather permitting flight or drive to Chilas, if unable to fly (490 km).
Day 04: Local chores in Skardu or complete road journey (275 km), if unable to fly yesterday. Hotel.
Day 05: Drive to Askole by jeep (7hrs, 3000m). Hire porters, distribute loads. Overnight in camp.
Day 06-12: Trek to K2 Base Camp. Via Korophone, Bardumal, Paiju, Liligo, Urdukas, Goro & Concordia.
Day 13-72: 60 days for climbing. Our services will be available only upto base camp. All nights in camps.
Day 73-76: Walk back to Hushe Valley via Gondogoro Pass and drive back to Skardu by jeep.
Day 78 & 79: Fly or drive to Islamabad via Chilas. Local chores in Islamabad . Overnight in Hotel.
Day 80: In Islamabad : De-briefing at Ministry of Tourism. In evening fly home.

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NANGA  PARBAT (8125 M) - EXPEDITION  PACKAGE
(Map of Nanga Parbat)

Altitude (Height) 8,125 Meters (26,650 Feet) Location (Bearings) N 35°.14′ – E 74°.35′ Range / Group Himalayas / Nanga Parbat Region / Glacier Diamer (Chilas) / Diamori Permit Zone Open Zone (No Army L.O) Best Climbing Time Mid May – Mid Aug Normal Permit Fee US$ 9,000 (for 07 persons) Discounted Fee US$ 4,500 (for 07 persons) Duration / Climbing 50 Days / 40 Days

The Naked Mountain , as interpreted in the local language, is the Ninth in height but the First in Actual Climb challenge & dignity in the world. Standing at the extreme western end of 24,000 Km Himalayan Range - just beyond the deep Indus Valley , culminates in an ice crest, 8125 M high. No other peak within 100 Km comes anywhere near it's size. It is separated from the Karakoram by the mighty Indus River . Nanga Parbat is not a single peak but consists of 20km long series of peaks and ridges. It is the second highest mountain in Pakistan .

It's incomparable Rupal Face (southern side) is one of the greatest precipices in the world - a sheer drop of 5000 M, while the North or Raikot Face plunging over (7000m) from the summit to the Indus River forms one of the world’s deepest gorge.   

Also notorious as the Killer Mountain , it has so far taken the biggest toll of human lives in the anal of mountaineering. Influenced by the centuries old legends, the locals believe beyond their doubts that Nanga Parbat is an eternal abode of Fairies & Demons who frequently curse their fury over the undesirable intruders in shape of roaring avalanches. The locals thus alarmingly warn mountaineers to keep their feet off this dangerous mountain. It is believed that the Queen of fairies lives in a Crystal Castle guarded by gigantic snow serpents and frogs. The earlier disasters in climbing this mountain are attributed to the displeasure of fairies.  

The first visual record of this mountain was a canvas painted by Rudolf Schlagintweit - a German traveler, who beheld this mighty peak in 1852. Nanga Parbat was first climbed in 1953 by a joint Austrian – German Expedition. Hermann Buhl made the final ascent in 41 hour solo climb without oxygen. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner climbed the south face (Rupal Face) with his brother Gunter in 1970, descending by Diamer face, where Gunter lost his life.  

HISTORY OF NANGA PARBAT

Nanga Parbat is one of the most challenging Peaks of the world. It is also called the Killer Mountain as it has taken the biggest toll of human lives in the annals of mountaineering. German expeditions were the worst victims but the mountain also eventually surrendered itself to the Germans for the first time in 1953 and again in 1962 who mounted as many as ten attacks on it between 1932 & 1970. The main peak has been climbed 11 times so far.  

Nanga Parbat first tasted blood in 1895 when the famous British mountaineer A.F. Mummery, attempted to scale it with a small team which included Gen. C.G. Bruce. The leader and two Gurkha porters were killed.  It was after 37 years that Willy Markl took a German expedition to the mountain in 1932 and again in 1934 when four climbers, including the leader and seven porters, died.  The worst tragedy befell the German expeditions under Karl Wein in 1937 when the entire team of sixteen, including porters was buried deep under a massive avalanche while sleeping their tents. The Germans came again in 1938 and 1939 and failed.  

Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, who climbed Everest in 1953 came to Nanga Parbat in 1950 with three British officers of Gurkha Regiments but their attempts also failed. The persistent and costly efforts of German were ultimately rewarded in 1953 when Dr. Karl Herrligkoffer, brought an expedition under the leadership of Peter Aschenbrenner and conquered it on July 3rd. Hermann Buhl was the man who finally did it. He made a solo attempt beyond Camp-VI and reached the summit where he had to spend the night in a thin pullover and survived.  

Dr. Herrligkoffer led another successful expedition to Nanga Parbat in 1962. A Czech expedition under Ivan Galfy in 1971 conquered the mountain, whereas a similar one in 1969 had failed.  Reinhold Messner and his brother Gunter Messner conquered the peak on 27 June, 1970 but on their return from the summit Gunter fell into a crevasse and got lost.  An Austrian expedition with Hans Schell as leader in 1976 was successful. Attempts by the American and Polish expeditions next year met with failure.  The Killer Mountain yielded again to two expeditions in 1978, the upper Austrian Himalayan expedition of Rudolf Warzer and the Italian expedition under Reinhold Messner who climbed the peak for the second time. Wanda Rutkievicz was the leader and one of the summiteers of a successful women expedition on 15th July, 1985.  The latest expedition to mount their summiteers on Nanga Parbat were Spanish, Belgium/Dutch and Italian expeditions all succeeded in summer 1986.  

SOME OF THE SUCCESSFUL EXPEDITIONS ON   NANGA PARBAT