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PAKISTAN
- THE ROCK CLIMBER'S PARADISE |
WHY SO MANY
ROCKS ?
The CONTINENTAL COLLISION of the three
mighty mountain ranges of the world the Himalayas, the Karakorams
& the Hindukush in the North
of Pakistan has given birth to the
thickest cluster of the Highest Peaks
and Largest Glaciers on
Earth. The statistics are simply baffling. 05
of the world's 14 peaks above 8000 meters are
in Pakistan.
101 peaks are above
7000 meters whereas, peaks from 6999 to 3000 meters
are countless. All peaks up to 6500 M may be climbed
without paying
any permit fees.
50 of the world's
100
highest peaks are in Pakistan. K-2 8626 M is the
second highest
on Earth.
Alone in Baltistan &
Hunza, there are more than 100 peaks above
18,000 ft. Literally, most of their base camps
are higher than the Summits of all the peaks in Europe. Pakistan's
glaciated region covers 12,000 Sq/Kms. The 06
longest valley glaciers of the world, are also in Pakistan
& their total length exceed 350 Km. The
Biafo-Hispar
glacial
corridor of
116 Km
is the
longest
on Earth. No
mention of over 300
small
glaciers &
their
tributaries
ranging from
1 to
50
Kms.
Pakistan happens to be the only country in the world which offers the
highest number of Big Walls, Rock Towers, Spires and Pinnacles of
excellent quality. The
vertical faces of Trango Towers are the world's tallest cliffs and
there are many other big walls like Uli Biaho, Shipton Spire, Cat Ears
Spires, Susbun Spires, Bakhordas, Cathedral ..etc.
NO CLIMBING FEES -
IT'S 100% FREE OF COST
In compliance to the new tourism policy and Visit Pakistan Year 2007,
the permit fees have been reduced so exorbitantly, that permits fees
for all peaks up to 6500 Meters have been waived off 100%, whereas,
peaks mega discounts of upto 90% have been given on peaks above 6500 M
in the semi explored regions of Gilgit & Hunza and un-explored regions
of Chitral & Ghizer Valley where hundreds of virgin peaks are awaiting
new conqurers. For more details on new clibing permits, click
new
permit fees.
WHY
PAKISTAN GUIDES ?
Backed by an invaluable experience of 30 years,
Kaiser
Khan, the CEO of
Pakistan Guides
(license # ID 350),
is a certified mountaineer (since 1980) from the Alpine Club of
Pakistan and one of the leading Adventure Tour Operators of
Pakistan.
He and his team
of formally trained and experienced guides, cooks and high altitude
porters are specialized
in
operating ice & rock climbing expeditions, trekking tours anf jeep safaris in
Pakistan.
Based on provision of excellent
sevices, we offer
various expedition packages,
like inclusive, economy and mini expedition packages
to suit all budgets. Before you choose our services, please don't forget to
see the
recommendations letters
from some of our happy clients from around the world. |
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THE GREAT
TRANGO TOWER EXPEDITION
The
vertical faces of Trango Towers are the world's tallest cliffs.
.
Altitude
/ Height |
6,286 Meters (20,618 Feet)
|
Prominence |
Approx. 800 meters (2,625 ft) |
Bearings / Location
|
N 35°.44′ – E 76°.11′
|
Range / Group
|
Karakoram / Trango
|
Region / Glacier
|
Skardu / Baltoro & Trango
|
Climbing Period
|
End Apr – Mid Sep |
Permit Zone |
Regulated (Need Liaison Officer) |
Normal Permit Fee |
U.S.$ 1200 (max 07 persons) |
Discounted Permit
Fee |
100% Free of Cost (2007 Only) |
Trip Duration / Climb |
47 Days / 31
Days
|
|
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The Trango Towers are a group
of dramatic granite spires located on the north side of the
Baltoro Glacier, in Baltistan, a district of the Northern Areas
of Pakistan. They are part of the Baltoro Muztagh, a subrange of
the Karakoram range. The Towers offer some of the largest cliffs
and most challenging rock climbing in the world. The highest
point in the group is the summit of Great Trango Tower,
6,286 m (20,608 ft). |
Structure
of the Group
All of the Trango Towers lie on a
ridge, trending northwest-southeast, between the Trango Glacier
on the west and the Dunge Glacier on the east. Great Trango
itself is a large massif, with four identifiable summits: Main
(6,286 m), South or Southwest (circa 6,250 m), East (6,231 m),
and West (6,223 m). It is a complex combination of steep
snow/ice gullies, steeper rock faces, and vertical to
overhanging headwalls, topped by a snowy ridge system.
Just
northwest of Great Trango is the Trango Tower (6,239 m),
often called "Nameless Tower". This is a very large,
pointed, rather symmetrical spire which juts 1000 m out of the
ridgeline. North of Trango Tower is a smaller rock spire known
as Trango Monk. To the north of this feature, the ridge
becomes less rocky and loses the large granite walls that
distinguish the Trango Towers group and make them so attractive
to climbers; however the summits do get higher.
These summits
are not usually considered part of the Trango Towers group,
though they share the Trango name. Trango II (6,327 m)
lies northwest of the Monk, and the highest summit on the ridge,
Trango Ri (6,363 m), lies northwest of Trango II.
Just
southeast of Great Trango (really a part of its southeast ridge)
is the Trango Pulpit (6,050m), whose walls present
similar climbing challenges to those of Great Trango itself.
Further to the south is Trango Castle (5,753 m), the last
large peak along the ridge before the Baltoro Glacier. |
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THE NAMELESS TOWER
EXPEDITION
The
vertical faces of Trango Towers are the world's tallest cliffs.
Altitude
/ Height
|
6,239
Meters (20,464 Feet)
|
Prominence |
Approx. 800 meters (2,625
ft) |
Bearings
/ Location
|
N
35°.46′ – E 76°.11′
|
Range
/ Group
|
Karakoram
/ Trango
|
Region
/ Glacier
|
Skardu
/ Baltoro & Trango
|
Climbing Period
|
End Apr – End Sep
|
Permit Zone
|
Regulated (Need Liaison
Officer)
|
Normal
Permit Fee |
U.S.$ 1200
(max 07 persons) |
Discounted Permit
Fee |
100% Free
of Cost (2007 Only) |
Trip
Duration / Climb
|
47
Days / 31
Days
|
Go on
Top |
|
SHIPTON
SPIRE
– STILL UNCLIMBED ?
Big, gnarly and unclimbed, the seldom seen north face
of Shipton Spire (5854 meters 19,199 feet) was attempted this past
summer by two Slovakians, Gabo Câmárik and Jozef “Dodo” Kopold, via
mixed terrain right of the hanging serac. Illness forced them to turn
around less than halfway up the line. The pair would later go on to
establish a new route up neighboring Uli Biaho (21,053 feet).
To
celebrate the Visit Pakistan Year 2007, the Govt of Pakistan has
waived off the permit fee for all peaks upto 6500 meters (21320 feet)
all over Pakistan and given 90% discount in the permits of all peaks
above 6500 meters in Gilgit, Hunza, Chitral & Ghizer regions, whereas,
all peaks above 6500 meters in Skardu / Baltistan region have
been discounted 50% off their
normal permit fees.
SHIPTON
SPIRE - EXPEDITION PACKAGE
Altitude (Height)
|
5,910 Meters (19,450
Ft)
|
Location (Bearings)
|
N 35° 45′ 36" – E 76° 07′ 12"
|
Range / Group
|
Karakorum
/
Baltoro
Muztagh
|
Region / Glacier
|
Skardu / Hainabrak |
Permit Zone
|
Regulated Zone
|
Best Climbing Time
|
Mid May – Mid Sep
|
Normal Permit Fee
|
US$ 1,200
|
Discounted Fee (click) |
100% Free of Cost
|
Trip Duration / Climb
|
30 Days /
20 Days
|
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THE KNOTTY CAT EARS SPIRE CLIMBED
Micah Dash and Eric DeCaria made the second
ascent of Cat’s Ear Spire (17,585 feet) in the Trango area of Pakistan,
climbing a 12-pitch variation to the original route on the stunning rock
needle.
The two Americans climbed the 3,500-foot line, Super Cat (VI 5.11 R
A1), in alpine style, enduring three bivouacs with no sleeping bags. They
placed no pins or bolts on the route. Cat’s Ear
Spire was pioneered in 2000 by Americans Jonny Copp and Mike Pennings. Dash
said in an email from Pakistan that the climb was “much more serious and
complicated than the Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower,” a route that
he and partners speed-climbed to the summit ridge last year.
“The route
consisted of pitch after pitch of mandatory run-out 5.11 off width, squeeze
chimney, and face climbing,” Dash said. Both men led & down climbed the
summit block to tag the top.
CAT'S EARS SPIRE - EXPEDITION PACKAGE
Altitude
/ Height |
5,361
Meters (17,585 Feet)
|
Location / Bearings
|
N
35° 44′ – E 76° 11′
|
Range
/ Group
|
Karakoram
/ Trango
|
Region
/ Glacier
|
Skardu
/ Baltoro & Trango
|
Permit Zone
|
Regulated Zone |
Best Climbing Time |
Mid May - Mid Sep |
Normal Permit Fee
|
US$ 1,200 |
Discounted Permit
Fee |
100% Free
of Cost (2007 Only) |
Trip
Duration / Climb
|
30
Days / 14-18
Days
|
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Go to 8000-M Peaks Page |
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